At 3,726 meters, Mount Rinjani dominates the island of Lombok. You can see its peak from almost anywhere on the island, and even from Bali across the sea. It is Indonesia’s second-highest volcano, and for me, as someone who spends a lot of time hiking in the Alps, it was clear from the start: after days of beaches and coconuts, I had to climb it.
You Can’t Go Alone
One big difference compared to hiking in Europe is that you cannot just go up on your own. A guide is mandatory. Too many tourists in the past underestimated the route, the altitude, and the weather, and had to be rescued. The trek is no joke. In just two days, you cover around 25 kilometers and climb more than 2,300 vertical meters.
Getting Ready in Senaru
Trekking companies usually pick you up anywhere on Lombok and bring you to the mountain village of Senaru the day before the hike. That is where you meet your guide, get your briefing, and usually meet the rest of your group. You also get the afternoon free.
My recommendation: walk to Sendang Gile Waterfall. It is about 15 to 20 minutes from the village, the path is easy, and the cool spray from the falls feels amazing after the island heat. Even if you do not hike Rinjani, this waterfall is worth visiting on its own.
Day One: Up to the Crater Rim
The next morning starts early. Your guide and the porters come to pick you up, and the first stop is the Sembalun medical center for a short health check. It is mandatory for everyone. Afterwards, you drive to the trailhead in Sembalun.
Day one takes you from 1,200 meters to 2,639 meters at the crater rim. The trail is about 9 kilometers long, with four official breaks along the way. The porters are incredible. They carry food, tents, and supplies in bamboo baskets balanced on their shoulders, often wearing only flip-flops. Lunch is usually served at Pos 2, and by the time you arrive at the crater rim, they will already be preparing dinner. Honestly, the amount of food was more than I could ever eat.
Arriving at the rim is an incredible moment. Suddenly, the whole island is below you, with clouds drifting in and out. In the crater itself lies Segara Anak Lake, a turquoise caldera lake with another small volcano, Mount Barujari, still smoking in the middle of it.
But here comes the downside: the campsite at the rim is filthy. Trash is scattered everywhere, despite recent cleanup efforts. For me, this was heartbreaking. The view is world-class, but it’s sad to see how careless people can be with nature.
Summit Day: Brutal and Beautiful
Summit day starts in the middle of the night. From the crater rim, it is another 3.5 kilometers and 1,100 vertical meters to the top. That does not sound like much on paper, but it is brutally steep. The volcanic ash makes it slippery, and at that altitude every two steps forward feel like one, because you slide half a step back.
Still, reaching the top in time for sunrise is something I will never forget. Standing above the clouds, looking down at the glowing lake inside the crater and across the sea to Bali’s Mount Agung… it makes every painful step worth it.
The Way Down
The descent is much easier, and in parts even fun. On the steep ash sections, you can almost “slide” down like skiing. After a breakfast break back at the crater rim, you continue down toward Sembalun, and by midday you are back at the trailhead.
Overall Experience
For me, climbing Rinjani was one of the hardest but also one of the most rewarding hikes I have ever done. The trash problem is real and disappointing, but the raw beauty of the mountain is still unmatched. If you love nature and hiking, it is absolutely worth doing. Just go prepared, respect the environment, and carry out everything you bring up.
Recovery
After Rinjani, you will need at least two days to recover. I stayed at Saifana Organic Farm, and it was the perfect place to slow down. The farm used to be a cashew plantation and is now run by a family who grow almost all their own vegetables and herbs. Meals are made from whatever is ready in the garden. Breakfast with their homemade cashew mousse and marmalade was one of the best I had in Lombok.
The place has just a few bungalows, spread out with lots of privacy, surrounded by open fields with views of the hills. The air is cool, the atmosphere is relaxed, and the owners are warm and welcoming. It is a spot where you can breathe fresh mountain air, stretch your legs in the fields, and just do nothing for a while. Exactly what you need after climbing a volcano.
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